“Lox is an example of a food that is so representative of our culture and yet so ubiquitously loved,” said Jake Cohen, the author of “Jew-Ish: A Cookbook.” Note from the constructorĪs a big fan of the food - it’s basically the equivalent of bacon as far as kosher breakfast foods go - I’m not sure that I’d say LOX is particularly good fill.
Lox, and smoked salmon in general, continues to be popular more than a century later, among people from different backgrounds, religions and cultures. “They had to smoke and cure and pickle everything to make it last longer and go further,” he added. Many of the Jewish immigrants who came through the United States in the early 20th century were poor, observant and dedicated to keeping kosher, Shelsky, said. Lox is often associated with Jewish culture and tradition. It’s possible that the contemporary pronunciation of the word lox is a consequence of contact with the Yiddish language, said Gregory Guy, a linguistics professor at New York University. When they were growing up, lox was the “less expensive, more common option,” Federman said, adding, “belly lox is a very niche product at this point, only for those in the know and those who are curious to try it.” It’s salt-cured salmon.” Even though Nova, a less salty smoked salmon option, is more popular these days, Russ & Daughters customers in their 80s and 90s still come into the appetizing shop asking for belly lox. “When people say ‘lox’ these days, most people are referring to smoked salmon,” she said.
Genuine lox is referred to as belly lox at Russ & Daughters, Federman added. The word lox has become commonplace, but it’s “kind of used incorrectly,” said Niki Russ Federman, a fourth-generation co-owner of Russ & Daughters, a New York-based appetizing shop that’s more than 100 years old. “There was not the capacity to fly or ship fresh product to the East Coast, so salmon was delayed and packed in wood barrels with pure salt,” David Zabar said. The bulk of the fish were caught on the West Coast, from California to Alaska, and Louis bought the salmon from smokehouses, many of which were in Brooklyn or Queens. His grandfather, Louis Zabar, launched the business in 1934, selling herring, lox and smoked fish on the Upper West Side. He was the store’s smoked fish buyer for a decade. Peter Shelsky, a co-owner of Shelsky’s of Brooklyn, said that genuine lox is so salty that “if you lay a slice of it on your tongue and just let it sit there for a minute, it starts to burn.” It originated in Scandinavia, according to David Zabar, the executive director of Zabar’s, an appetizing market in New York City. Enjoyed by generations of people, New Yorkers in particular, the bagel shop staple has a fascinating history.īy definition, lox is salmon that has been packed and cured in salt. It has been clued in several different ways, including “bagel go-with,” “fish eaten cold,” and “cured salmon.” The word LOX made its first appearance in the New York Times Crossword in 1953, as a clue for “smoked salmon.” Most recently, it appeared in Monday’s puzzle, constructed by Rebecca Goldstein.īagels and lox are like salt and pepper - they practically belong together at the brunch table. LOX has been used in 85 New York Times crossword puzzles, according to XWord Info. This is Clued In, a column that will give you insight into some of the New York Times Crossword clues and answers.
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